Whether you crave award-winning local IPAs, a windswept lighthouse tour, or miles of bike trails that lead to pristine beaches, we have a batch of New England weekend getaways planned for you.
By Steve Jermanok
Aug 03 2018
The J&E Riggin’s “Maine Lighthouses and Lobster Cruise” offers visitors what just may be the ultimate Maine experience.
Photo Credit : Mark FlemingNow that famed microbrewery the Alchemist, which cans the beloved ultrahoppy Heady Topper, has moved from Waterbury to a larger facility here in Stowe, the town has evolved into a craft brew hub. Sample Heady Topper along with other favorites like Focal Banger and Hellbrook at the state-of-the-art visitors center that opened in July 2016. Then make your way up the hill to the Trapp Family Lodge. Best known as the family that inspired The Sound of Music, the von Trapps turned in 2015 to making Austrian-style lager, which has reaped accolades such as silver medalist at the Great International Beer Festival since its debut. Tour the brewery, one of the largest in the state, and then taste the award-winning Bohemian pilsner, amber Vienna-style lager, or the ultrasmooth Golden Helles at the new Trapp Brewing Bierhall Restaurant — any of which, in our opinion, pairs deliciously with a plate of bratwurst. Prefer cocktails to craft brew? Head to the base of Mount Mansfield to Stowe Mountain Resort, where master mixologist Dan Hatheway tends bar at the invitation-only speakeasy, Linehouse. Inside the cozy space filled with stained Vermont maple, sit at the bar as Hatheway breaks out his eyedropper to place bitters atop a rum-saturated Smugglers Barrel or creates a tasty concoction of bourbon and blended scotch he coins the Kashki. It might be wise to book a room at the resort in advance, because who knows what shape you’ll be in when you walk out of there.
Portland, Maine, deserves its reputation as a top New England dining destination, especially with Sam Hayward still at the helm of the award-winning Fore Street, but a little farther south, Portsmouth is coming into its own as a recognized foodie outpost. Matt Louis of Moxy and the Franklin was nominated in 2018 as one of the best chefs in New England by the prestigious James Beard Foundation, joining chef Evan Mallett of Black Trumpet, a four-time nominee. Mallett is known for his Moroccan and Latin American influences, which shine through in specialties such as fattoush salad, chicken sausage with figs, and a sublime mussels dish that will have you dipping the homemade bread in the bowl. (Louis also knows his way around seafood: At the Franklin, try the harissa-rubbed grilled shrimp paired with fries cooked in duck fat.) On Saturday mornings, see where the chefs get their just-picked produce at the weekly farmers market at City Hall. Or walk across Memorial Bridge into Maine for a lobster-in-the-rough lunch at Warren’s Lobster House.
Dubbed “America’s most patriotic town,” Bristol is perhaps best known for its Fourth of July festivities, which started in 1785. But this small coastal community of 23,000 is worthy of a weekend trip almost any time of year. Walk the glorious grounds of the Blithewold estate, built in the 1890s, which is awash in colorful flowers in spring and splendid fall foliage in autumn. Shipbuilding has played an integral role in town since the 17th century, and there’s no better way to appreciate the profession than by visiting the Herreshoff Marine Museum, located on the site where yachts were built for eight consecutive America’s Cup defenses between 1893 and 1934. Afterward, take a guided tour of historic Linden Place and learn how the DeWolf family made and then squandered their wealth in the slave trade. Spend the night on High Street at the William’s Grant Inn, a Federal-style home from 1808 that boasts seven chimneys, perfectly suited for history buffs.
With miles of handcrafted stone walls fronting classic colonial homesteads, you really don’t need too many excuses to visit Connecticut’s Litchfield Hills. Yet there is a special incentive to visit Woodbury, dubbed the “Antiques Capital of Connecticut,” in the region’s southern tier. Whether you desire furniture, porcelain, rugs, paintings, books, mirrors, and even sleighs and buggies, you’ll find a dealer catering to your wishes at one of the more than 30 shops in town. A bonus on weekends is the Woodbury Antiques and Flea Market, which runs every Saturday and Sunday from 7:30 am to 2:30 pm. Stay at the Curtis House Inn, which first started operating as an inn in 1754, and you’ll be in the right frame of mind to go antiquing.
The largely rural state of Maine is known as one of the finest places in the nation to enjoy the night sky. Every September, Acadia National Park in Bar Harbor is home to the Acadia Night Sky Festival, where workshops will teach you to become a constellation connoisseur. Head even farther north to locales like Presque Isle, and in the cooler months of the year you might just catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. In late summer, we prefer the southern coastal town of Kennebunkport, where a relatively new campground, Sandy Pines, offers guests a chance to go glamping in either comfy safari-style tents or cozy A-frames. Grab lobster rolls at the snack bar and stare at the stars from the expansive grounds, which also houses a general store, farm stand, ice cream cart, saltwater pool, kids’ craft tent, playground, and laundry facilities. And be sure to check out the website of the Astronomical Society of Northern New England, based in Kennebunkport, to see if it has any special events happening during your stay.
Art lovers should start their tour of the Berkshires in the industrial town of North Adams, where you’ll find Mass MoCA, the largest center for contemporary art in the United States. It took 12 years to transform the buildings of the former Sprague Electric Company into an art extravaganza that now spans 26 structures across 16 acres. A 2017 addition includes works by light artist James Turrell, whose pieces bathe the rooms in hypnotic colors. Don’t miss Building 7, devoted entirely to the massive wall drawings of the late Connecticut painter Sol LeWitt (the show opened in November 2008 and will be on display for 25 years). Across the street from Mass MoCA is the Porches, a collection of row houses that have been converted into a boutique hotel. The next day, drive up to Williamstown, where you’ll find another unexpected gem, the Clark Art Institute. Wander into its galleries to view an impressive collection of impressionism, with canvases by Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, and Cezanne and an entire room devoted to American master Winslow Homer. Then walk the bucolic grounds — something you can’t do in a big-city art tour.
Some 30 miles from the Massachusetts mainland, life on Nantucket moves along at a leisurely pace. There’s no better way to get an intimate look at island living than by slowing down on two wheels and biking to its scenic moors, sprawling beaches, and quiet communities. Thankfully, bike trails break off in every direction like spokes on a wheel. When you’re ready to escape the crowds, wander over to Young’s Bicycle Shop and rent a bike for the day. If you simply want a long stretch of beach, take the easy 3.5-mile bike trail south of town to Surfside Beach. Avid bikers who want to make a day of it should head to the eastern tip of the island. Start on the six-mile-long Milestone Road bike path, a straight shot through the heart of the island to the town of ’Sconset, where rose-trellised cottages line the narrow streets. Spend your nights at an island-vibe accommodation such as the Nantucket Boat Basin: Perched on the docks of Nantucket’s port, its restored cottages are as close to the ocean’s edge as you can get.
Home to the lighthouse that Edward Hopper made famous in his paintings, Portland Head Light, and the impressive Pemaquid Point Light (found on the back of the Maine quarter), the Pine Tree State is best known for these and similarly stately edifices that line its rugged shoreline. There are more than 60 lighthouses on the Maine coast, and approximately one-thirdcan be found in Penobscot Bay, the cruising grounds for the c. 1927 windjammer J&E Riggin. Hop aboard for a three- or four-day “Maine Lighthouses and Lobster Cruise,” and you’ll be clicking photo after picturesque photo. Co-captain Anne Mahle, author of the cookbook At Home, at Sea, is known for her innovative and tasty fare. So expect your lobster to be served atop a bed of sun-dried-tomato fettuccini and paired with fresh-baked biscuits. Save room for desserts such as butterscotch-topped gingerbread with sautéed apples.