Magazine

Josh Ziskin — Brookline, MA

La Morra Brookline, Massachusetts lamorra.com “Oh, man–by the end of winter, it is the toughest time,” says Josh Ziskin. “It’s so hard to write a menu. We stick really close to what’s locally available, and spring takes its time. We don’t put asparagus on until it’s in season, and that can take a while.” But […]

By Annie Copps

Mar 17 2009

Josh Ziskin

Josh Ziskin

Photo Credit : Kalinowski, Matt

La Morra
Brookline, Massachusetts
lamorra.com

“Oh, man–by the end of winter, it is the toughest time,” says Josh Ziskin. “It’s so hard to write a menu. We stick really close to what’s locally available, and spring takes its time. We don’t put asparagus on until it’s in season, and that can take a while.” But fiddleheads make the list earlier than most. “They look so cool and they jump up early,” he adds. “And people are interested in them because of the cool curl.”

They aren’t the easiest greens to work with, Josh notes: “But they’re totally worth the challenge, and as a chef, I have to address their strong texture and grassy flavor. They can overpower a dish if they aren’t cooked right. I love pickling or sauteing them. It dulls the grassiness and draws out their structure–great with cured meats, salads, or a nice sharp New England cheese.”

RECIPE